Take me out to PNC Park for some of that new grub

Thursday, April 05, 2007

By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

It might seem as if it's all about the players, especially when the roster includes the likes of Freddy Sanchez and Jason Bay. But lineups aren't the only thing that generates excitement come the start of baseball season -- for some fans, it's almost as much about the food. How else can you explain the fact that Pittsburghers are expected to wolf down some 4,500 hot dogs during the Pirates' home opener on Monday against the St. Louis Cardinals?

Little wonder that ballpark concessionaire Aramark is continually fine-tuning its menus with new food items to keep fans happy (and full). Many of those new dishes are inspired by what chefs are yakking up in trade publications, while others, like the crab cake sandwich and lobster roll served during last year's All-Star game, are copycats of what's hot at competing ballparks.

But occasionally, as is the case with one of this year's new offerings at PNC Park -- the "Bucco Taco" -- the genesis is a little more, shall we say, pedestrian.

If you've ever stood in the concession line at a high-school sporting event, you're probably familiar with the indigestion-inducing but oh-so-tasty indulgence known as the "walking taco" -- a bag of crushed Fritos topped with taco meat and served with a plastic fork. The Bucco Taco plays off that idea, but with ingredients intended to take it to the next level, according to Steve Musciano, Aramark's general manager for PNC Park.

Like the popular high school treat, the new addition marries corn chips with a serving of chili. But you also get the added oomph of cheese, fresh tomatoes and sour cream, along with a fragrant smattering of green onions. Adding to its grown-up appeal is the fact the taco will be served in a plastic cup emblazoned with a Pirates Bucco instead of in that messy little red-and-yellow bag. It also comes with a grown-up price: $5.25.

A little more upscale -- in concept anyway -- are the new "Taste of the Majors" action stations. Designed to bring premium services to the general concession level, these stands on the first level of the ballpark will feature local foods found in other cities in the majors. Many of the specific menu items are still in the planning stages, says Mr. Musciano, and the stations will be open only on weekends and during sellouts.

But two dishes that are expected to be served on opening day include a Beef Brisket Sandwich Platter (popular in the Kansas City area) and a Crab Cake Sandwich Platter (all the rage in the Baltimore region), each priced at $10.50.

Or maybe you're the type of fan who would rather feed a sweet tooth. If so, you'll undoubtedly enjoy some new frozen drink treats from the North Shore Ice Co. being offered in Section 117.



The North Shore Breeze ($4.50 for regular, $6.50 for a yard), combines a fruit slushy with vanilla ice cream. It is available in strawberry or orange, or a combination of both flavors, and can also be ordered without ice cream ($3.75). For the first time, the park will also offer Starbucks' "Creamice" frozen espresso drink at a couple of locations. Starbucks coffee will be available throughout the park.

If your taste gravitates toward better beer, the new Club 3000 sports bar will open on the club level -- open to premium seat holders -- that will have 21 taps of craft beers, from Dogfish Head to Great Lakes to Victory. Also, on the main concourse, four new craft brews will be available at Pub 475 at Pop's Plaza and at the Beers of The Burgh.

If you gravitate toward the private boxes and tonier eateries such as the Lexus Club, you can look for changes there, too, brought about by Levy Restaurants' new executive chef Matt Roach, who started in November after working at US Cellular Field, home to the 2005 World Champion Chicago White Sox. He hopes to bring some of that mojo, but foodwise, he's going to add more organic, local and sustainably raised ingredients, which he'll showcase at the Lexus Club's new Chef's Harvest Table.

For Monday, he's planning Honey-Thyme Free-Range Chicken; Spinach and Parmesan Stuffed Zucchini; Bibb Lettuce Salad with Poached Pears, Organic Goat Cheese and Lemon-Lime Vinaigrette as well as an Organic Mixed Green Salad; even a Smoked Tofu Salad.

"It'll change as the season goes along," the chef says. "Once local farmers get up and going, we'll start using their products as well."

As for fans who like to stand on tradition? You'll still be able to enjoy such local offerings as Primanti Brothers sandwiches and Quaker Steak & Lube chicken wings, along with Benkovitz fish sandwiches and Manny's (Sanguillen) pulled-pork barbecue.

And the Bucaroo's kids stand near the Left Field Gate will once again offer kid-sized hot dogs and other ballpark food at reduced prices (a secret find for adults who are too cheap to pay full adult prices but not embarrassed to line up with grade-schoolers).

Whatever your culinary pleasure, all fans can take comfort in knowing that beginning on opening day, Aramark will use only trans fat-free oil in its fryers (non-hydrogenated corn and sunflower oil). Cutting edge, but a move that mirrors a societal trend toward healthier lifestyles. "And we," says Mr. Musciano, "try to stay ahead of the trends."


Just a little snack

Hot dogs are the most popular food purchase at PNC Park, but they're far from the only gastronomic indulgence. According to Aramark, the 38,000 or so fans who attend Monday's opener are expected to also gobble up 2,000 orders of nachos, 1,500 pounds of French fries, 1,000 soft pretzels and 1,000 sausage and pepper sandwiches.

Oh, and 600 hamburgers. And that's just the main courses.

The park also anticipates selling 250 bags of peanuts, 100 bags of Cracker Jack and 60 gallons of ice cream, all washed down with 1,700 bottles of water and 1,500 gallons of soda -- 12,000 16-ounce servings.


(Post-Gazette staffer Bob Batz Jr. also contributed. Gretchen McKay can be reached at gmckay@post-gazette.com or 412-761-4670.)